Textile Lovers: Don’t Miss Lima’s Amano Museum
Lima is a often nothing more than a necessary stopover for travelers en route to Machu Picchu and other destinations in Peru. The notorious traffic, gloomy skies for 8 months of the year, and overall “run for your liiiife!” vibe when crossing streets can be a real turn-off for those coming to experience the spectacular natural sites of Peru. Fair enough — I struggled with Lima my first few years living in Peru, unable to get past the city’s cold, hectic exterior. However, I encourage you to step away from the hotel bubble as Lima has a lot to offer for those willing to look.
Enter, the Amano Museum. Lima has no shortage of great museums, but the Amano can’t be beat for its exquisite textile collection and relaxed, private ambience. For a textile lover like me, this is church. Located in an unassuming building inside a residential district of Miraflores, here you can unplug from the city, taking your time to browse hundreds (thousands?) of rare textiles accompanied by only a handful of other visitors. Walking from one low-lit room to the next in chronological order, you follow the evolution of societies and textile techniques from the earliest known examples in 2500BC up through the Incas.
The earliest discovery of ancient decorated fabrics along the northern coast. 2500 BC.
The museum offers private tours but you can easily get by on your own. Beautifully presented placards in Spanish and English tell the story of complex textile making that began along the northern coast and eventually made its way to the Andes region. My favorite exhibit is the collection of miniatures: small copies of kilts, loincloths, turbans, capes and featherwork attire, all produced using the same techniques of standard size clothing. These textile offerings were included inside the Paracas tombs and funerary bundles to symbolize expectations for the afterlife. The attention to detail and deft use of color is astounding.
The Amano Museum is great for filling an afternoon any time of year, but here’s a hot tip: go during winter (June through October) to for an escapadita from Lima’s grey, bone-chilling weather. Due to the extremely delicate nature of the textiles, air inside the building needs to be kept dry to prevent the fabrics from catching mold. The final room on the circuit at the back of the complex is best insulated against humidity and is where you should plan to loiter at least 30 minutes to give yourself the full dry spa treatment. A large two-level hall that houses drawer upon drawer of exceptionally delicate weavings along with some pottery, the cozy yellow lighting, hum of industrial dehumidifiers, and warm desert-like air feels like luxury. I always get the sudden urge to nap in this room. The lack of seating suggests I’m not the only one.
Nonetheless, listening to classical piano on my earbuds as I wander the museum trance-like while ogling 1,000yr+ textiles is a cherished winter ritual.
What: Amano Pre-Columbian Textile Museum
Where: Calle Retiro 160, Miraflores
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday 10am-5pm. Open Mondays by appointment.
Entry Fee: General Admission: S/. 30. Peruvian Adults over 65 years old: S/. 20. Peruvian Students: S/. 10. Accepts cash and credit cards.
Tours (up to 11 people): Simple Guided Tour: S/. 30 per group. Specialized Guided Tour: S/. 50 per group. Contact the museum for groups larger than 10.
Contact: Website here. Email here. +51 (1) 441-2909
Notes: Grab lunch before/after your visit right around the corner at La Caffeteria di Lonato.